Microgreens are one of the quickest ways to grow fresh leafy food at home. They need very little space, can be grown indoors and many varieties are ready to harvest within one to three weeks.
You do not need a garden or complicated equipment. A shallow tray, suitable growing medium, quality microgreen seed, clean water and enough light after germination are the basic ingredients for a successful crop.
The most important thing to understand is that different microgreens need different amounts of seed, soaking, blackout and growing time. Broccoli and radish can be sown dry, while peas and sunflower need pre-soaking and benefit from pressure during germination.
This guide covers the complete process from choosing your first seeds through to sowing, blackout, lighting, watering, harvesting and troubleshooting.
What Are Microgreens?
Microgreens are young edible seedlings harvested after germination but before the plant reaches the baby-leaf or mature stage.
Most are harvested after the cotyledons—the first seed leaves—have opened and developed colour. Depending on the crop, harvest may occur before or around the time the first true leaves begin to appear.
Microgreens can be grown from many vegetables, herbs, grains and other edible plants, including:
- Broccoli
- Radish
- Mustard
- Kale
- Peas
- Sunflower
- Beetroot
- Amaranth
- Basil
- Coriander
- Parsley
- Mizuna
- Tatsoi
- Shiso
- Sorrel
OzSprout's Microgreen Seeds collection includes fast beginner crops as well as slower herbs and speciality varieties for growers wanting to expand their range.
What Is the Difference Between Microgreens & Sprouts?
Sprouts and microgreens both start with germinating seed, but they are different growing methods.
Sprouts are generally grown without soil through repeated soaking, rinsing and drainage. The root, shoot and remaining seed are usually eaten together.
Microgreens are grown for longer in a tray using coco coir, seed-raising mix or another suitable growing medium. At harvest, the stems and leaves are cut above the root zone.
Microgreens also require suitable light after germination so their cotyledons can develop colour and the seedlings can grow normally.
What Do You Need to Grow Microgreens?
A simple home setup includes:
- Microgreen seed suitable for the crop you want to grow
- A shallow tray with drainage holes
- A solid lower tray for drainage and bottom watering
- A suitable growing medium
- Clean, drinking-quality water
- A second tray or opaque cover for germination where required
- A modest weight for crops that benefit from weighted germination
- Bright natural light or a suitable grow light
- Clean scissors or a sharp harvesting knife
The OzSprout Microgreen & Wheatgrass Grow Tray provides drainage and can be nested inside a solid lower tray for bottom watering after the seedlings establish.
You do not need to buy every possible microgreen accessory before your first crop. Start with a simple tray system and one or two straightforward seed varieties.
Which Microgreens Are Best for Beginners?
Some varieties are considerably easier to learn than others.
For a first crop, good choices include:
- Broccoli – mild, reliable and no pre-soak
- Daikon Radish – very fast and vigorous
- Green Mustard – fast with a spicy flavour
- Pea Shoots – substantial shoots and large easy-to-handle seed
- Black Sunflower – crunchy and rewarding once you learn weighted germination
Broccoli or Daikon radish are the two varieties I would choose for an absolute beginner.
They allow you to learn sowing, blackout, light, moisture and harvesting without introducing the additional soaking and seed-hull management required by larger seeds.
For a full comparison of these five crops, see Best Microgreens for Beginners.
Example Growing Times
| Crop | Pre-soak | Blackout | Approx. Harvest |
|---|---|---|---|
| Broccoli | None | 2–4 days | 8–12 days |
| Daikon Radish | None | 2–3 days | 7–10 days |
| Green Mustard | None | 2–3 days | 8–12 days |
| Pea Shoots | 6–8 hours | 3–5 days | 10–14 days |
| Black Sunflower | Approx. 8 hours | 3–4 days weighted | 8–12 days |
These examples show why one universal microgreen recipe does not work. Always follow the current growing specifications for the crop and seed batch you are using.
What Is the Best Growing Medium for Microgreens?
Microgreens can be grown in several different media, including:
- Coco coir
- Fine seed-raising mix
- Soil-based microgreen mixes
- Suitable fibre or growing mats
- Blends containing materials such as vermiculite
A good growing medium should:
- Hold enough moisture for germination and root growth
- Allow excess water to drain
- Maintain useful air space around roots
- Provide enough structure to support the crop
- Be clean and suitable for edible plants
There is no single medium that is automatically best for every crop.
Coco coir is a practical all-round option for many home growers, while a good seed-raising mix can be useful for longer-growing varieties.
For a detailed comparison, see Best Growing Medium for Microgreens: Coco Coir, Soil & Vermiculite.
How to Grow Microgreens Step by Step
Step 1 – Clean Your Equipment
Start with clean trays, covers, soaking containers and tools.
Remove all roots, growing medium and plant debris from previous crops.
Wash reusable equipment thoroughly and allow it to dry before starting another tray.
Step 2 – Prepare the Growing Medium
Add approximately 2–4cm of suitable growing medium to the tray.
Large-rooted crops such as peas and sunflower often benefit from a little more depth than very small brassica microgreens.
Moisten the medium evenly before sowing.
The root zone should be damp throughout but should not contain pools of standing water.
Level the surface gently without compacting it heavily.
Step 3 – Prepare the Seed
Check the instructions for the particular crop before sowing.
Small seeds such as broccoli, radish, kale and mustard are generally sown dry.
Large seeds such as peas and sunflower normally need to be pre-soaked.
Do not apply the same soaking time to every seed simply because they are all being grown as microgreens.
Step 4 – Sow at the Correct Density
Spread the seed evenly across the growing surface.
Microgreens are grown much more densely than mature vegetables, but there is still such a thing as too much seed.
Overcrowding can:
- Reduce airflow
- Trap moisture
- Produce weak stems
- Increase competition within the tray
- Make fungal problems more likely
Use the crop-specific seeding rate supplied with the seed rather than relying on a single number for every tray.
Step 5 – Create Good Seed-to-Medium Contact
Good contact between seed and moist growing medium helps produce more even germination.
Small seeds may only need gentle pressure from another tray.
Larger seeds such as peas and sunflower benefit from more deliberate pressure during early germination because emerging roots can otherwise lift the seeds away from the medium.
Step 6 – Cover the Tray for Germination
Many microgreens benefit from a covered germination or blackout stage.
This helps:
- Reduce moisture loss
- Maintain seed-to-medium contact
- Encourage even establishment
- Allow young roots to anchor before the crop moves into light
The length of this stage depends on the crop.
For the full explanation of covered germination, weighted trays and when to uncover, see Microgreen Blackout Explained.
Step 7 – Move the Seedlings into Light
Once the crop has germinated properly and roots are established, remove the cover.
Freshly uncovered seedlings are often pale yellow or cream because they have developed without light. This is normal.
Move the tray into:
- Bright indirect natural light
- Gentle morning sunlight where temperatures remain suitable
- A properly positioned grow light
The seedlings should begin developing their characteristic green, red or purple colour after exposure to sufficient light.
Step 8 – Transition to Bottom Watering
During germination, light misting or gentle surface watering can help keep shallow roots and seeds moist.
Once roots become established, bottom watering is generally the easier main method.
Place the drainable grow tray inside a solid lower tray and add a modest amount of water beneath the crop.
Allow the medium and roots to absorb what they need.
Do not leave the growing tray sitting continuously in deep standing water.
See How to Water Microgreens: Misting vs Bottom Watering for the complete watering method.
Step 9 – Maintain Airflow
Dense microgreen canopies trap moisture between stems and leaves.
Good airflow becomes increasingly important once the blackout cover is removed.
Avoid:
- Cramped enclosed spaces
- Continuously wet leaves
- Waterlogged growing medium
- Very dense sowing
- Hot stagnant conditions
Step 10 – Harvest at the Right Stage
Harvest timing varies considerably between crops.
Many fast varieties are ready within approximately 7–14 days, while slower herbs and speciality microgreens may take several weeks.
Use the crop-specific harvest range together with:
- Cotyledon development
- True-leaf development
- Stem texture
- Colour
- Flavour
- Overall crop condition
Do not leave a crop growing simply because a general guide says it should take longer.
Do All Microgreens Need Blackout?
No.
Blackout is a useful growing technique, but the duration and amount of pressure vary significantly between crops.
For example:
- Daikon Radish generally uses around 2–3 days.
- Broccoli generally uses around 2–4 days.
- Pea Shoots generally use around 3–5 days.
- Black Sunflower generally uses around 3–4 days with light-to-moderate weight.
Watch the seedlings rather than relying only on the calendar.
The crop is generally ready to leave blackout when most viable seed has germinated, roots are anchored into the growing medium and the seedlings are beginning to push strongly upwards.
How Much Light Do Microgreens Need?
After germination, microgreens need enough light to develop good colour and compact growth.
Insufficient light commonly produces:
- Pale leaves
- Long weak stems
- Seedlings leaning strongly towards a window
- Loose, stretched canopies
Too much direct heat can create different problems.
A shallow tray beside a hot west-facing window can heat very quickly during an Australian summer, even when the plants appear to be receiving ideal sunlight.
Bright indirect light or a controlled grow-light setup is often easier to manage than intense afternoon sun through glass.
How Often Should You Water Microgreens?
There is no universal daily schedule.
Water use depends on:
- Crop variety
- Plant age
- Tray size
- Growing medium
- Temperature
- Humidity
- Airflow
- Light intensity
A mature tray of pea shoots can use considerably more water than a newly germinated tray of broccoli.
Check the crop and root zone rather than automatically watering because a particular number of hours has passed.
Why Is Airflow Important?
Airflow helps the foliage dry normally and prevents pockets of stagnant humid air from building up around dense seedlings.
This is particularly important during warm or humid Australian conditions.
Airflow does not mean blasting young seedlings continuously with a powerful fan. The aim is simply to prevent the crop sitting in a hot, stagnant, excessively humid environment.
How to Harvest Microgreens
Use clean scissors or a sharp harvesting knife.
Cut the stems just above the growing medium.
Avoid cutting coco fibre, soil or root material into the harvested crop.
Where practical, harvest when the foliage is relatively dry rather than immediately after heavily watering the crop.
After harvest:
- Remove obvious seed hulls or debris.
- Keep the microgreens as dry as practical.
- Place them loosely in a clean container.
- Refrigerate promptly.
If washed before refrigeration, drain and dry thoroughly first.
Growing Microgreens in Australian Conditions
Microgreens can be grown indoors throughout the year, but Australian temperature and humidity changes still influence the crop.
Hot Weather
During summer:
- Shallow trays can dry quickly.
- Established crops may use considerably more water.
- Direct sunlight through glass can overheat seedlings.
- High temperatures combined with excessive moisture can increase disease pressure.
Check trays more frequently, maintain airflow and avoid assuming that adding more water can compensate for excessive heat.
Humid Weather
High humidity slows evaporation.
During humid periods:
- Reduce unnecessary surface watering.
- Maintain airflow.
- Avoid overcrowding.
- Do not allow water to remain indefinitely in the lower tray.
Cool Weather
Germination and growth may slow during winter, especially for warmth-loving crops such as basil.
Cooler conditions are not necessarily a problem, but the growing cycle may take longer than it did during warmer months.
Common Microgreen Growing Problems
Poor Germination
Check:
- Seed age and storage
- Crop-specific soaking requirements
- Temperature
- Moisture
- Seed-to-medium contact
- Whether the seed was planted too deeply
Long, Pale Seedlings
This usually indicates insufficient light or leaving the crop covered for too long.
Seedlings Falling Over
Possible causes include:
- Overwatering
- Severe drying
- Poor airflow
- Damping-off
- Excessive stretching
- Weak root establishment
White Fuzz Around the Roots
Fine white hairs growing directly from individual roots are often normal root hairs.
Mould is more likely to spread irregularly between plants or across the growing medium and may occur alongside slime, decay, collapsing seedlings or unpleasant odours.
If you regularly struggle to tell the difference, see Mould vs Root Hairs on Sprouts & Microgreens.
The Growing Medium Stays Wet
Possible causes include:
- Too much water
- Poor drainage
- High humidity
- Insufficient airflow
- A medium that retains too much moisture for your environment
Correct the underlying condition rather than simply adding more airflow or withholding water indefinitely.
Crop-Specific Microgreen Growing Guides
Once you understand the general method, crop-specific instructions become more important than generic rules.
Use these guides for some of the most popular OzSprout crops:
- How to Grow Radish Microgreens at Home
- How to Grow Pea Shoots at Home
- How to Grow Sunflower Microgreens at Home
As the OzSprout microgreen library expands, each major crop can have its own growing guide while this page remains the central starting point for the overall method.
Microgreen Food Safety
Microgreens are commonly eaten raw, so clean growing and harvesting practices matter.
For home growing:
- Use clean trays and equipment.
- Use clean, drinking-quality water.
- Use seed suitable for the intended edible crop.
- Start with fresh, clean growing medium.
- Maintain drainage and airflow.
- Avoid waterlogged conditions.
- Use clean scissors or harvesting tools.
- Refrigerate harvested microgreens promptly.
- Discard crops showing mould, slime, decay, unusual discolouration or unpleasant odours.
Do not attempt to salvage an obviously spoiled crop simply because most of the tray still appears healthy.
Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Microgreens
How long do microgreens take to grow?
Many fast crops are ready in approximately 7–14 days. Slower herbs and speciality varieties may take several weeks.
What are the easiest microgreens to grow?
Broccoli and Daikon radish are two of the easiest starting crops. Mustard is also straightforward, while pea shoots and sunflower are good next crops once you are comfortable with pre-soaking and weighted germination.
Do microgreens need soil?
No. Microgreens can be grown in coco coir, fine seed-raising mixes, soil-based media and suitable fibre growing mats.
How deep should the growing medium be?
Approximately 2–4cm is a practical range for many microgreens. Large-rooted crops such as peas and sunflower can benefit from slightly more depth than small brassica crops.
Do microgreen seeds need to be soaked?
Some do and some do not. Broccoli, radish and mustard are normally sown dry. Peas and sunflower require pre-soaking using the current OzSprout growing methods.
Do all microgreens need blackout?
No single blackout method applies to every crop. The duration and amount of pressure vary according to seed size and growing behaviour.
Should microgreens be misted or bottom watered?
Misting or gentle surface watering is useful during sowing and early germination. Once roots are established, bottom watering is generally the preferred main method.
Do I need a grow light?
Not always. Bright natural light can work well in a suitable position. A grow light is useful where natural light is weak, inconsistent or causes the plants to stretch towards a window.
Can microgreens grow indoors all year?
Yes. Indoor growing allows microgreens to be produced throughout the year, although temperature, humidity and available light can change the growing time and watering requirements.
Why are my microgreens leggy?
The most common causes are insufficient light or leaving seedlings in blackout for too long.
Can microgreens regrow after cutting?
Most microgreens are best treated as a single-harvest crop. Some species, particularly peas, may produce limited regrowth, but the second crop is generally less uniform.
Can I grow different varieties together?
You can combine compatible varieties, but beginners are usually better growing crops separately because soaking, blackout, seed density and harvest times can vary substantially.
How to Grow Microgreens: The Bottom Line
The basic microgreen process is straightforward:
- Clean your equipment.
- Prepare evenly moist growing medium.
- Prepare the seed according to the crop.
- Sow at the correct density.
- Maintain good seed-to-medium contact.
- Use covered or weighted germination where appropriate.
- Move established seedlings into suitable light.
- Bottom water once roots are established.
- Maintain airflow.
- Harvest at the correct stage for the crop.
The biggest mistake is assuming every microgreen should be treated exactly the same way.
Learn the basic tray method with a straightforward crop such as broccoli or radish, then use the specific sowing, soaking, blackout and harvest instructions for each new variety you grow.